Huayna Potosí climb

The Huayna Potosi is in the Cordillera Real, northeast of La Paz in Bolivia. Huayna Potosi can be climbed by complete beginners. It provides amazing views of the Cordillera Real, Lake Titicaca and the Altiplano.

Currency

From: CLP $ 170.000

P/P.
TR-CSA-003

The Huayna Potosi is in the Cordillera Real, northeast of La Paz in Bolivia. Huayna Potosi can be climbed by complete beginners. It provides amazing views of the Cordillera Real, Lake Titicaca and the Altiplano.

Description

Huayna Potosí is the closest high mountain to La Paz. Surrounded by high mountains, it is roughly 15 miles due north of the city, which makes this mountain the most popular climb in Bolivia. The normal ascent route can be climbed by complete beginners. It is a fairly straightforward glacier climb, with some crevasses and a steep climb to the summit. However, the other side of the mountain, Huayna Potosí West Face, is the biggest face in Bolivia. Several difficult snow and ice routes ascend this 1000 meter high face. This tree days tour provides amazing views of the Cordillera Real, Lake Titicaca and the Altiplano.

The first ascent of the normal route was undertaken in 1919 by Germans Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze. Some climbing books report this mountain as the “easiest 6000er in the world”. The normal route entails a ridge and sections of moderately steep ice, with a UIAA rating of PD. The main reason Huayna Potosí has been referred to as the easiest 6000m climb is that the elevation gain from trailhead to summit is less than 1.400 m; with easy access from La Paz. Since La Paz is at 3640 m, climbers have an easier time acclimatizing.

Day 1: La Paz (3600m) – Paso Zongo (4700m) – Lower Glacier (4900m) – Paso Zongo
We drive from La Paz to Paso Zongo (4700m). Once at Paso Zongo we drop our gear in the huts and have some lunch. After lunch we walk to the lower glacier, at the lower glacier the guides will explain and show some basic techniques for ice climbing and mountaineering. We will have the chance to practice these techniques with the guides and our climbing equipment. Later in the day we will practices ice climbing techniques on small ice walls with safety ropes in place. After we walk back to the base camp where we sleep in a Refugee.
1 1/2 hour drive, 1 hour trek each way, 3 – 4 hours on the lower glacier (LD) Refugee.

Day 2: Paso Zongo (4700m) – High camp (5200m)
Today we have relatively easy day up to high camp. High camp is on a rock buttress at an altitude of 5200m and at the base of the glacier. The walk up in on a well used path on rock. Once at high camp we need to get our gear ready for the next day, as we have an early start in the morning. We also have time to rest and rehydrate. It’s an early night, tonight where we sleep in the Refugee.
3 – 4 hours trek (BLD) Refugee.

Day 3: High camp – Summit (6088m) – High camp – La Paz
We have an early start in the morning. We will leave around 1 am in the morning. It will be cold so we want to dress well. The climb starts on the glacier, will start with our crampons on, and the rest of our climbing gear. The climb is mostly follow a trail on the glacier. We have 2steep sections, one at around 5600m, called the Pala Chica. The trail goes through a snow and ice wall. Once through this part we keep following the trail on the glacier up to 6000m. From this point we can see the summit above as. The last section to the summit is great climbing on an exposed ridge. From the summit we can see from Illimani (6439m) to Illampu (6368m). After we take our photo shot on top, we head back down the same way to high camp. Once back at high camp we have a short rest and pack our gear. We then head back down to base camp to meet our transport back to La Paz.
9 – 13 hours climb, 1 hour drive (BL)
END of SERVICES

Prices include

Professional English speaking mountain guide, guide ratio 2 clients to 1 guide
Meals as mentioned, including drinks at camp meals (B – breakfast, L – lunch, D – dinner)
All private transport
2 night’s refugee
Cook
Equipment for the mountain, ropes and protection
First Aid kit
Oxygen bottle

Not included:

Personal clothing
Personal insurance
Extra services not mentioned in the program
Tips
Thermal underwear (top and bottom)
Thin liner gloves
2 pairs of socks (one thin and one thick)
One backpack (approx 50 L)
Sunblock
Sunglasses
Sleeping bag ( -25 °C by night )
Porters to carry personal equipment, available at extra cost ($30 US, one way)
Prices, 3 day trip:
Private Trip (one client with a private guide) $310 US
Group Trip (two or more qualify as a group) $202 US each

The best time of the year for this tour is from May to October. The rest of the year the weather is not appropiate.

Technical climbing with ropes, trekking up to high camp (5200m).

Grade of climb: Normal route II/AD – 50°.

Some fitness / good fitness is requiered.

No experience / some experience.

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